20 January 2012

Flashback Friday: Sophie's Transformation

The royal headlines may have been dominated by a certain duchess this past year, but there's another Windsor lady that's managed to sneak in some positive fashion press here and there. And maybe, just maybe, her sartorial journey is a more interesting tale to tell.
 
Sophie Rhys-Jones was working in public relations when she met Queen Elizabeth's youngest son, Prince Edward, in 1993. By the time they married in 1999 (that's right, Prince William's not the only one that insisted on a long wait after seeing high profile royal marriages implode before his eyes), she was 34 years old and was the co-founder of her own PR firm, RJH Public Relations.
Sophie before her marriage; at right, the engagement day photocall
Sophie was a businesswoman from the start, not a princess. And that no-nonsense style is exactly what she brought to the family early on. Her royal engagements often involved a simple suit which you can easily picture her wearing to the office the next day. The main concession she made to fancying it up for the occasion was usually a hat - she's never been shy with her millinery style. She sported a short haircut which netted her plenty of comparisons to Diana, Princess of Wales. A fine style for day, but it never quite lived up to a fancy royal evening occasion; she always looked like she ought to be in a suit, even with a tiara on. (And that tiara of hers...well, it needs more help than short hair can give.)
Sophie's early years as Countess of Wessex
But the thing was, Sophie didn't really need a fancy princess style at the beginning. Whereas her predecessors the Princess of Wales and the Duchess of York were both foisted into a fairly full-time royal routine straight from the honeymoon, Sophie intended to keep her career. She and Edward together were going to pioneer a new sort of royal life: they would keep their jobs in the commercial sphere (Edward had a film production company, Ardent Productions) and have a small royal workload on the side.
The statement hats
Unfortunately, that grand plan was a grand fail. In 2001, Sophie was caught on tape making overly political remarks and appearing to use her status in the royal family to win a sheikh's business for her firm. Turns out the sheikh was a fake, and Sophie had been had. Edward had been suffering from claims he used his royal status to get ahead in business for years (his company's biggest successes usually dealt with royal subject matters). He also ended up in particularly hot water in 2001 when a film crew from Ardent was caught invading Prince William's privacy at St. Andrews University in violation of the press agreement at the time.
Early evening wear choices
In damage control mode, it was announced in 2002 that the Wessexes would make a hasty retreat from the commercial world into the royal one and take on a full time role supporting Queen Elizabeth in her Golden Jubilee year. The next few years would see Sophie and Edward transition into parenting as well as the royal grind. In December of 2001, Sophie suffered an ectopic pregnancy. In 2003, in another life-threatening situation, she gave birth to daughter Louise. Son James was born in 2007.
Some transitional full-time royal looks
Now ten years in to full-time royal life, Sophie's style is getting some deserved recognition. It's been suggested that she upped her game (including reports of a personal trainer to slim down) as some sort of way to compete with the Duchess of Cambridge, Princess Beatrice and Princess Eugenie. While I'm sure that makes for a fab tabloid headline, I beg to differ: Sophie's been transitioning her style for years. She's gradually let go of the rows of super practical business suits in favor of more feminine looks and a broader range of designers. She's experimented with trends while keeping things age appropriate. And she's grown out that short haircut to a look that has softened her, given her more options, and provided a much better tiara cushion. Sophie's sartorial game has been improving for years - it's just taken our current excess of royal admiration for people to notice.
2011
I'd guess Sophie's new style comes from a new confidence. No longer trying to straddle the royal and commercial worlds, she's settled into her role as a quietly hard working Windsor. Her scandal has faded into the background (and others have emerged - one has to wonder if she has any video sting sympathy for the Duchess of York). She's now referred to as a favorite of the queen; she gets the prize place riding in the car to church at Sandringham each year, a tradition which started when she was on the mend from her lost pregnancy in 2001. And the queen has recognized her work by awarding her the Royal Family Order, first seen on Sophie in 2004, and recently the Royal Victorian Order, awarded in 2010. The Royal Victorian Order is given for personal service to the queen, and she doesn't give it easily.
Garter Day, 2011
Today, January 20th, is Sophie's 47th birthday. And if you ask me, the Countess of Wessex looks younger (and happier) than she did in the early years of her marriage. Well played, Sophie.

What do you think is behind Sophie's style change?

Photos: AFP/Getty Images/Corbis/Polfoto/Daylife/Zimbio/Hello

19 January 2012

Tiara Thursday: The Imperial Chrysanthemum Tiara

Of all the requests I've gotten in the past few months for more information on non-European royal families, requests for Japanese tiaras seem to be the most popular. Information isn't widely available in this realm; the Japanese imperial family is a tight-lipped organization. No, you won't find any Japanese empresses casually discussing personal tiara stories in documentary format any time soon. Nevertheless, we'll do our best.

Japan's monarchy has a long and rich history, but most of that history doesn't include tiaras as we typically define them. The tiara is not a part of Japanese traditional dress - this is not what you top your kimono with. It wasn't until Westernization hit Japan in the Meiji era (1868-1912) that tiaras began to enter the imperial family's jewelry box.

The Imperial Chrysanthemum Tiara
One of the most important diadems in the collection is the Imperial Chrysanthemum Tiara. Depicting chrysanthemum flowers surrounded by foliage, the tiara is entirely diamond. In fact, there isn't a non-white tiara publicly worn by the imperial ladies today - they're all diamonds with a smattering of pearls here and there. White is an important color for the family, and is the traditional color of dress for senior ladies at the most formal imperial events.
Imperial Seal of Japan
Of even greater symbolism is the motif here: the chrysanthemum is the symbol of the monarchy. The 16-petaled flower makes up the Imperial Seal of Japan, the monarchy is the Chrysanthemum Throne, and their highest order of chivalry is the Order of the Chrysanthemum.
Empress Kōjun
With all this symbolism at hand, the Imperial Chrysanthemum Tiara is quite rightly worn only by the empress. Empress Michiko, wife of Emperor Akihito, now has possession of the flowery diadem. Before her it was worn by her mother-in-law Empress Nagako (who is known posthumously as Empress Kōjun). Michiko chooses this for some of her most important occasions, like the annual New Year's reception. It's actually a rather tall tiara, as you can see on Kōjun above, but Michiko tends to wear it tilted back on her head which makes it seem smaller than it is.
Empress Michiko
Empress Michiko uses three tiaras these days; two that she wore as crown princess are now used by her daughter-in-law Crown Princess Masako. The collection of the family on the whole is on the large side, but well distributed: each royal lady has at least one tiara to use, whether they received it when they came of age at 20 or when they married in. The newer ones tend to have a matching necklace.
The empress wearing the Imperial Chrysanthemum Tiara with a sampling of the depth of the imperial tiara collection behind her, at the New Year's reception in 2012
I love the way the foliage surrounding the chrysanthemums comes up even with the top of the flowers on this tiara - rather than having them stick up, button-style. They're evident as you get closer but can fade into the design from farther away, at which point it becomes something of a massive diamond headband (the way Empress Michiko wears it, at least). And I'm always in favor of that.

How does this one rank among your favorite floral tiaras?

Photos: All Over Press/yuk02ch

Week in Review: Princess Mathilde, 8-14 January

  1. At a New Year's reception for diplomats, 11 January. Great dress! Bridesmaid territory with the shoes, alas.
  2. Attending a meeting on community mediation, 12 January. Now, here's a suit I like: it fits her great, and she's pepped it up by using her fetish for giant accessories for good. Luverly.
Photos: Zimbio/Getty Images/Rob.tv

18 January 2012

Wedding Wednesday: Queen Paola's Gown

 HRH Prince Albert, Prince of Liège and Donna Paola Ruffo di Calabria
July 2, 1959
Brussels, Belgium

Today's post is a request which I am delighted to fulfill because I adore looking at early pictures of the lady we know today as Queen Paola of the Belgians. Paola was born in Tuscany to an Italian princely family; her father was Prince Fulco Ruffo di Calabria, Duke of Guardia Lombarda. She met Prince Albert, second son of King Leopold III of the Belgians, at the coronation of Pope John XXIII and married him less than a year later.
The two lovebirds preferred a Vatican wedding but under pressure from the Belgian government, the Pope refused. The government wanted Belgium to have a royal wedding to celebrate, and they got their wish.
For her Brussels wedding, Paola's gown was made of specially woven heavy satin. The dress features a 5 meter long train and a bow at the waist accented with a small brooch. The standout feature is her veil, a family heirloom first worn by her Belgian grandmother and made, so fittingly, of wonderful Brussels lace.
Since Paola brought the veil "home", the family tradition has continued with her daughter and two daughters-in-law wearing it at their weddings. Paola wore a small cluster of orange blossoms in lieu of a tiara with her grand veil.
It's worth noting here that at the time of the wedding, Albert and Paola weren't set to be the future King and Queen of the Belgians. Albert's older brother, Baudouin, was an unmarried king then; their father abdicated in his favor in 1951. It would be another year before Baudouin married his queen, Fabiola. Surely they couldn't have imagined that Baudouin and Fabiola would be childless, leading to Albert's accession in 1993. And this is certainly not the gown of a queen, as Fabiola's was.
To tell you the truth, I've never liked this dress. It's basic with a fab veil, which is usually right up my alley, but the problem is simple: when I look at it, I don't see Paola. I only see her gown, and all the shine, and the hefty veil. But the lady herself looks rather...plain. And young Paola, well, let me tell you, was anything but plain. She was quite a legendary beauty, in fact. And any dress that tries to compete with that level of exquisiteness is bound to fail.
Young Paola
Albert and Paola have now been married for more than 50 years and have three children (Prince Philippe, Princess Astrid, and Prince Laurent). Unfortunately, it hasn't been smooth sailing all this time. By their tenth wedding anniversary, Albert had fathered an alleged illegitimate daughter with his mistress (he has never recognized her). They were jointly unhappy, and the infidelity rumors came from both sides. King Baudouin and Queen Fabiola were very much against the idea of a divorce, so they remained married yet estranged for many years. But just as others were preparing to accept a divorce, they reconciled. By the early 1980s they were in love once again, and today the affection they show in public is very real. They've both acknowledged that their marriage has had rough patches and Paola has noted that in the end, they're made for each other.

What do you think of Paola's wedding gown?

Photos: Bunte

Week in Review: Princess Letizia, 8-14 January

  1. Visiting a children's book fair, 11 January. Hey, this must be the replacement for that navy suit she used to wear constantly. Wear it until you can't bear it any more!
  2. At a meeting of the Spanish Association Against Cancer, 13 January.
Photos: Zimbio/Spanish Royal House