Tiara Watch of the Day: Queen Mathilde in Portugal

It's a multi-tiara event week, buckle your seat belts. (Speaking of which, don't forget that you can find our quickest coverage of the British/Dutch state visit over at the Jewel Vault, before it is covered here.)

King Philippe and Queen Mathilde began a state visit to Portugal yesterday.

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First up in this week's state visits are the Belgians in Portugal. Queen Mathilde arrived in a repeated Armani outfit with a delicate lace coat and satiny dress, topped by a Philip Treacy hat. This outfit was debuted last year during events commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Passchendaele.

With the President of the Portuguese Republic
Belgian Royal Palace

Mathilde originally wore this for the Last Post ceremony, an event that went into evening. I think maybe that suited it better - although it's certainly easy to see why she categorized it as an outfit special enough for a state visit. That lace is like gossamer. (Also, she should wear more Philip Treacy hats.)

Belgian Royal Palace

The Queen rolled that gossamer feel right into the state banquet, wearing a new gown in a soft shade of sparkle blergh. The sash situation here is tricky. Making both the Grand Collar of the Order of Prince Henry the Navigator and a sash look neat and tidy is a feat that's eluded two queens in a row now.

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Anyway, this state banquet managed to provide multiple tiaras for us. Firstly, the Queen wore her Laurel Wreath Tiara. It was a wedding gift and her primary tiara for years and years; it's now one she's used for other visits like this one, to a republic.

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The Duke and Duchess of Braganza are also regulars at these banquets. (The Duke is a claimant to the defunct Portuguese throne.) The pink-clad Duchess still has a few tiara options at her disposal; this one is a lovely necklace piece.

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Also present (and kindly sharing on her Instagram) was Princess Diana d'Orléans, Duchess of Cadaval, with her husband Prince Charles-Philippe d'Orléans. The Portuguese noblewoman wore the Cadaval Tiara, a tiara of diamonds and pearls she wore on her wedding day.

Qualifies as an A+ tiara turnout, I'd say! That's a good start to the week.

Royal Outfit Grab Bag of the Day: Máxima, Victoria, Rania, Charlene

Checking in with a few other leading ladies before we head back to Sussexland...

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King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima visited Zeeland this week.

Shockingly enough, Máxima has been up to a bunch of hats and bright colors. (Warming up for her state visit to the UK next week, I hope.) This skirt reminds me of aerial photos of tulip fields. Claes Iversen shared a little Instagram look at these skirts from his Spring/Summer 2017 collection and how they're made. Very delicate and detailed.

Crown Princess Victoria and Prince Daniel visited Jordan, where they were received by King Abdullah and Queen Rania. The Swedish couple are also visiting Lebanon.
Royal Hashemite Court

Is it possible to avoid overdoing the design details on a dress by simply overloading it so much that your eyes have no choice but to gloss over some of the fussier bits? Victoria's dress is an experiment seeking an answer. (Mermaid scales. That's all I can get from this whole thing.) She does end up sort of pleasingly color-coordinated with Queen Rania's Ralph & Russo ensemble, though.

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Princess Charlene attended the 2018 Princess Grace Awards Gala.

Charlene doesn't do the big toothy grin thing in posed photos (which is her prerogative! I'm over people demanding smiles at all times) - and you don't even need one here to tell that she's quite pleased with her sassy Ralph Lauren evening suit. Blazers slung over the shoulders remain on my pet peeves list, but if there's someone who can pull this look off, it's Char.

Princess Eugenie & Jack’s Wedding: The Bride and Bridal Party

We’ve done a deep dive on the tiara surprise at Princess Eugenie’s wedding to Jack Brooksbank; click here for all of the posts on this wedding.

The Bride

© MOD Crown copyright 2018

Princess Eugenie revealed in a pre-wedding interview that she was using a British-based designer for her wedding gown. British-based rather than just British set off a guessing game that was heavy on Erdem and very light on the actual correct answer: Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, founders of the British-based label Peter Pilotto. (Pilotto is Austrian and Italian; De Vos is Belgian and Peruvian.)

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I associate Peter Pilotto with innovative use of prints in intriguing silhouettes, something brought to life in royal wedding gown format through complicated construction and a custom jacquard fabric. The fabric was designed by Pilotto and De Vos to include several meaningful motifs: thistles for Scotland because the couple is fond of Balmoral, shamrocks for Ireland as a nod to the Ferguson family, York roses, and ivy since the couple live in Ivy Cottage at Kensington Palace. Those symbols were crafted into “a garland of rope like motifs, woven into a jacquard of silk, cotton and viscose blend.” The design was then translated into a jacquard weave in Italy.

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The silhouette was identified after the designers researched previous dresses worn by members of the royal family, with close involvement from Princess Eugenie. The dress is constructed in multiple layers, including a corset, a complex underskirt, a fitted bodice, and a full pleated skirt.

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The neckline folds around the shoulders and dips into a low back. Eugenie specifically requested a low back because she wanted the scar from her scoliosis surgery at age 12 to be on full display. "I think you can change the way beauty is, and you can show people your scars and I think it's really special to stand up for that," she said in an interview before the wedding. She’s been very open about her battle with scoliosis; she’s patron of the hospital where she had her surgery. It’s a powerful statement. Quite a beautiful one as well.

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She went without a veil; a veil would have covered up the scar – and probably would have turned into a logistical nightmare, given the wind was snatching hats left and right today. The veil-free choice was all the better to display the best part of the gown: the full-length train. The back view was simply stunning, perfect for standing at the altar and walking down an aisle as grand as St. George’s Chapel. I didn’t love the neckline, but whatever it took to get to that low back is worth it.

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The wedding was the first time we’ve seen Princess Eugenie in a tiara and she certainly made a splash: the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara was a mystery before the wedding and hadn’t been previously worn by a member of the royal family. We’ve covered it in depth here. She paired the tiara with diamond and emerald earrings which were a gift from her new husband. Her wedding shoes were satin peep-toe heels by Charlotte Olympia.

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The bouquet was created by Patrice Van Helden Oakes, sister of Rob Van Helden, the main floral designer for the wedding. It included Lily of the Valley, Stephanotis pips, hints of baby blue thistles, white spray roses and trailing ivy, in addition to the traditional sprigs of myrtle from Osbourne House. That tradition goes back to Queen Victoria.

The Bridesmaids, Page Boys, and Special Attendant
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Blue and green were the big colors in this wedding, something emphasized by the outfits of the bridesmaids and page boys. These were designed by Amaia Arrieta of Amaia Kids. The colorful sashes around their waists are patterned with the same Mark Bradford artwork included in the Order of Service. A playful detail in action that I assume is also of some meaning to the couple.

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Lady Louise Mountbatten-Windsor was a special attendant in the bridal party, a.k.a. the designated wrangler of all the young ones. Unfortunately it's a bit difficult to find a decent pic of her (at the time I'm writing this), but she hit a nice note between grown up guest and color-coordinated bridal party member with her Claudie Pierlot dress Emily London hat.

The Maid of Honor and Mother of the Bride

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Princess Beatrice was named Maid of Honor. Rather than the position of train-wrangler in a matching gown you might have expected, it seems to have been more of a special designation for someone close to the bride. Beatrice wore a royal blue outfit from Ralph and Russo and a hat by Sarah Cant, plus a diamond buggy brooch on her side. Can we get MORE RALPH AND RUSSO for her, uh, right now?! She looked very sharp indeed.

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Sarah, Duchess of York was also quite sharp, I thought, in her green outfit by Emma Louise Design and a statement hat from Jess Collett Hats. She also had a meaningful touch in her outfit: her vintage Manolo Blahnik bag was carried by her own mother, the late Susan Barrantes, at Sarah and Andrew’s wedding in 1986. Sweet touches all over, just how it should be.

Royal Outfit of the Day: Máxima Wants in on the Green Trend

How long do you think we can keep this little green week thing going, hmm?

Queen Máxima visited Utrecht on Friday.

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Queen Máxima made sure to get in her contribution before the week ended, in a repeated green lace dress with a big green hat (of course), green shoes (of course), and a green bag (of course). In spite of my continued general objection to the constant matchiness, I'm tempted to say that this is one of the stars of green week.

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Then again, throwing in a hefty dose of emeralds and diamonds from the family vaults never hurts.

Royal Events of the Day: Denmark & Norway Open Parliament

Two more monarchies checked the opening of parliament off their autumn to do list yesterday:

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In Denmark, the primary members of the royal family watch the proceedings from a balcony (rather than the monarch giving a speech, as happens in other countries). Queen Margrethe's cheery blue outfit provided a welcome dash of color on a rainy day.

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Crown Princess Mary and Princess Marie seemed appropriately bundled up, Marie even adding a turtleneck under her repeated Paule Ka coat (which Hereditary Grand Duchess Stéphanie also owns). Mary is channeling Jackie O in this jacket and pillbox hat - with some skirt color to pep things up - which is pretty much a foolproof strategy.

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My winner for the day, though, is the perpetually elegant Princess Benedikte. She arrived in a brown wrap over a pumpkin dress with a feather in her hat. If autumn itself needed a parliament opening outfit, this is the outfit autumn would wear. Perfection.

Hans Kristian Thorbjørnsen/Stortinget/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 (cropped)

For Norway's parliament opening, King Harald reads the speech; he's accompanied by Queen Sonja and Crown Prince Haakon. The gentlemen steal the show here as always in their uniforms. Queen Sonja pretty much has her own uniform, usually wearing black and/or white with some red thrown in some years. Can't really argue with that.

Royal Outfits of the Day: Swedish Royals at Parliament & More

It was Sweden's turn to open parliament this week, with the Swedish royal family present as always.

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The ladies do a black and white (and shades thereof, in this case) dress code, which is reminiscent of the black and white court dress worn decades ago. This year that led to Crown Princess Victoria wearing a Paule Ka top she's worn previously to this same event. I'm half wishing Princess Sofia's jacket had a beige bottom, thereby completing the fake out crop top effect. Just for kicks.

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The looks were likewise tame for the evening's concert. Feels a little more day attire than it usually does, really just shiny fabrics here to differentiate. Except for Victoria's metallic Escada dress, which has been worn multiple times in the past.

Kungl. Hovstaterna

While we're in Sweden: Princess Sofia attended a board meeting for Sophiahemmet yesterday and this look might have caught my eye more than the parliament stuff did. Nothing says cozy like a giant smocked velvet turtleneck, amirite? Cozy or claustrophobic, depending on your turtleneck tolerance. You be the judge.

Top by Rodebjer, per UFO No More

Royal Event of the Day: Dutch Royals at Prinsjesdag 2018

Get your hats ready, it's Prinsjesdag time! King Willem-Alexander addresses the government every September, reading a speech from the throne detailing plans for the coming session; he's accompanied by Queen Máxima, Prince Constantijn, and Princess Laurentien. For those not familiar, this event features a dress code that was popular for big royal events many years ago but which has become increasingly rare: long dresses, orders, and hats for the ladies. No tiaras because this is a day event.

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Queen Máxima goes all out for Prinsjesdag with a special outfit. This year's outfit is...

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...well, it's impressive, really...

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...because I would not have thought...

Louisa Beccaria Iridescent Multicolor Georgette Long Dress, per ModeKoninginMaxima

...that a candidate for my least favorite Máxima Prinsjesdag outfit ever would be so...bland, honestly?

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It's too much and not enough for me. There's so much happening in the overly vertical hat with unrelated feathers and the fussy neck and sleeves, but underneath it all is a muted pastel color blocking thing that just doesn't do much. Suffice it to say, I won't be remembering this year's edition when it comes time for the bests of 2018.

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Princess Laurentien opted for a tried-and-true combination for this sort of dress code: the long jacket over a matching sleek long dress. Very elegant! And I need hardly tell you that she picks up multiple bonus points for highlighting an accent color from the fabric with her purse and shoes.

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Also, nice beard, Prince Constantijn.

Royal Outfits of the Day: Máxima's Double Event Monday

Queen Máxima doubled up on her events on Monday. She also doubled up on her outfits, and doubled up on her experiments in balancing volume.

Queen Máxima opened the Theater De Blauwe Kei during a visit to CHV Noordkade.

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This dress has a little bit of interest on the one side, sort of a built-in shawl turning into a flowy ruffly thing (please try to keep up with my technical terminology). It's not a particularly voluminous dress, so it's well-matched to a bigger brimmed hat. There's balance here. Throw in a pair of swinging aquamarine earrings and you've got a winner.

She also attended the G20 Workshop of the Global Partnership for Financial Inclusion.

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On the other hand, pairing a voluminous floral blouse with a voluminous pair of culottes is...well. This one fell right off the balance beam, didn't it.

Royal Outfit of the Day: Meghan's Wedding Birthday

The Duchess of Sussex celebrated her birthday over the weekend by attending the wedding of Charlie van Straubenzee and Daisy Jenks with Prince Harry.

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That'll do! I know some people love to clutch those pearls about a darker color at a wedding, but...meh. This dress seems so lightweight - at least it has great movement through the pleated skirt in all the pictures - it's 100% summer to me. The color blocking does enough to keep the color light. Anyway, any day Harry leaves the butter yellow waistcoat behind is a good day.

Club Monaco

Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank were also there.

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And...that'll also do, I guess! Pretty basic there. I see we've got plenty of members of #TeamShades, that's always a plus. Even #TeamFunkyShades for Eugenie. (Funky only on a royal scale, mind you.)

Royal Event of the Day: National Day in Belgium

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The Belgian royal family was front and center this weekend to celebrate Belgium's National Day, which also marked the fifth anniversary of King Philippe taking the throne. (We covered the new portraits they released for the occasion last week.) They marked the event with a fair bit of family coordination and a fair few prints.

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But we'll start with Queen Mathilde's single color entry to the weekend's sartorial lineup, a Natan dress with Fabienne Delvigne hat. It's a pretty solid addition to her file of National Day looks. Although I do think the hat seems precariously perched in many shots. A tilt too far.

Princess Eléonore, Prince Gabriel, Princess Elisabeth, and Prince Emmanuel
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Combined with their mother, Princesses Elisabeth and Eléonore very nearly form a royal rendition of the black, yellow, and red Belgian flag. Which makes me extra glad for the lovely floral embellishment on Elisabeth's dress, just to keep things from being too literal.

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Prince Lorenz, Princess Astrid, Prince Laurent, Princess Claire

Princess Claire's commitment to red and white matched her sister-in-law Mathilde's commitment to the color, though I think Claire's look might have benefited from a solid color hat.

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One quick outfit change later, King Philippe and Queen Mathilde headed to the park for more National Day fun. I said it wouldn't be shocking if this green dress turned up in another royal closet, and here it is! We first saw this L.K.Bennett print on Princess Sofia.

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Mathilde was also mad for print at two pre-National Day activities. Yes, that's a jumpsuit up there, and...

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...yes, that's unmistakably an Erdem up there. Ruffles and shine and flowers and a high neckline, not unlike the divisive Erdem evening dress worn by the Duchess of Cambridge in Sweden in January. I don't know if this one is better or if I've just accepted this trend as our new reality, but I'm not minding Mathilde's version. I'm sure you'll set me straight in the comments.

Royal Outfits of the Day: Seeing Double with Máxima and Mathilde

Our most consistent royal style twins are back at it again.

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Queen Mathilde and King Philippe paid a visit to Windsor Castle last weekend, where Mathilde sported a lovely, soft dress with a scattered print and a soft green purse. That dress, though, was a double take from one we'd already seen:

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Queen Máxima wore it for an engagement in Utrecht last month, also pulling some sage out for some of her accessories. Or she wore a version of the dress, I should say; the designer has differentiated between these twin queens by gathering Mathilde's print at the hem and Máxima's at the waist. The designer, of course, is Natan.

But don't make your judgement call on which version is best just yet. There's yet another option to consider:

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The Belgian monarchy released new official photos to mark five years of King Philippe's reign, and Mathilde's wearing the same dress - just with a whole different top. A collar, looks like a button down, plus straight sleeves. (Also making me see double: the Law & Order strut toward the camera pose, not unlike the one used by the Dutch royal family for the portraits they released for their own fifth anniversary earlier this year.)

Which collar? Which pattern arrangement? To hat or not to hat? One dress, so many options. Sometimes this twin act turns into grown up Fashion Plates. Maybe that's their master plan.

While we're at it, the rest of those fifth anniversary portraits:

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King Philippe, looking stately. Belgium, as always, trying to win my heart with their purple sashes. (It's the Order of Leopold.)

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Máxima owns this dress, too, plus another in the same fabric style.

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And finally, awwwww.

P.S.: Yes, I know some of you are unhappy that we have not had a Tiara Thursday feature in a while. The feature isn't dead, and your patience is appreciated.

Royal Outfits of the Day: The Duchesses at Wimbledon

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The royals grabbed their spots for the Wimbledon finals this weekend, kicking it off with a double duchess act on Saturday for the ladies' final. The Duchess of Cambridge and the Duchess of Sussex donned their own versions of tennis whites and headed out for their first engagement together without their husbands.

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They both stayed in their respective wheelhouses, basically. A new bespoke Jenny Packham dress for Kate, with a print one could liken to tennis balls if one was feeling in the themed mood, plus a new Dolce & Gabbana purse.

Wimbledon

Meghan went crisp and classic with long trousers and a striped shirt from Ralph Lauren. The trousers did go a little overboard with an extra wide leg and long length, but I'm just pretending that's not there, because I love the rest of this look. Right down to the white hat she carried with her. More Panama style hats!

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Kate was back for Sunday's final for the men, with William as her date this time.

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More Dolce & Gabbana was on tap, doubling up on the Italian label for the weekend with a new yellow dress. Yellow's the royal color of the summer, huh? Two examples is absolute proof of a trend, I'm pretty sure that's how the math works.

Royal Outfits of the Day: British Royals Celebrate the RAF Centenary

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Big time gathering of the Windsors yesterday! They all met up to do their usual thing (watch military parades, attend church services, watch flypasts, all that jazz) in honor of the 100th birthday of the Royal Air Force.

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Leading the way was the Queen, of course, but since she has a whole blog to herself (you know the drill, clicky click for Jewel Vault fun), we'll kick it off with the Duchess of Cornwall and the second version this week of her personal summer white uniform. Prince Charles headed up the royal men, almost all of them wearing their Royal Air Force uniforms. (One of my faves!)

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I don't think the Duchess of Cambridge was on the advance list of royals expected, but how could she miss an opportunity to debut the third in this series of almost-the-same-but-not bespoke Alexander McQueen coats? She paired it with a hat by Sean Barrett.

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The bigger story was her jewels. Like many of the royal ladies, she wore the badge of an RAF organization with which she's affiliated: she's Honorary Air Commandant of the RAF Air Cadets, and this is the Air Cadets Dacre Brooch. (More on the brooch and a close up here, when she first wore it.) Her earrings are the Diamond Pendant Earrings on loan from the Queen.

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The Duchess of Sussex wore Dior with two things we know she loves: a boat neck and a belt. Feels like classic Dior, very elegant. The Stephen Jones hat added the right amount of interest. (Because the But What Color Is It REALLY? debate always seems to consume some folks, let's handle it: Dior calls it black in their press release, and it looks deep navy in action. Doesn't really matter either way.)

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The Countess of Wessex also enjoyed a bit of hat foof (technical term) for the RAF's big day. Both the Jane Taylor hat and the Suzannah dress are repeats here. She doubled up on her brooches, wearing a Dior brooch underneath her small RAF badge.

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Every time the Princess Royal wears this outfit (which is a lot because, you know, Anne), I think she's pinned a prize rosette at her waist. A prize rosette in the festive color of brown.

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Rounding out the rest of the fam, the Duchess of Gloucester made sure they filled their mandatory navy quota for the day, Princess Michael wouldn't have been hurt by a shorter jacket, and Princess Alexandra smiling in purple will certainly make me smile in return.

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Ending this on the rest of the uniforms feels about right: the Duke of York, the Duke of Kent, and Prince Michael.

Tiara Watch of the Day: The Belgium/Australia State Visit

Programming Note: The blog returns Monday!

King Philippe and Queen Mathilde welcomed Australia's Governor-General and his wife for a state visit to Belgium yesterday, thus keeping us in tiara watching fun for a second time this week. (Thanks, Mathilde.)

Belgian Monarchy

Only the very grandest of settings will do for a state banquet! (This is at the Castle of Laeken.) Mathilde did not bring the grandest of tiaras - not a surprise, she tends to adjust her bling based on the guest - but longtime readers will already spot what I love here.

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PURPLE! Purple on top of purple, even. The dress almost looks blue here, it's very much on the cool violet/periwinkle end of things while the sash of the Order of Leopold is much warmer. I shall not let that get in the way of a good purplefest.

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She added in her diamond butterfly brooch, diamond and pearl earrings, and the Wolfers Necklace Tiara from Queen Fabiola.

The fabric shown on the runway, Armani Privé Spring 2016

The dress is custom Armani Privé, seen previously at King Carl Gustaf's 70th birthday banquet in 2016, when she also wore the Wolfers Tiara. Her Laurel Wreath Tiara would have been a good one to try here.

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Going backwards in time, the Queen's new Natan for the welcome ceremony has the delicate floral embroidery I love, and she's pulling her accessory color from those details, another thing I love. So it took me a while to figure out what wasn't clicking here for me: I think it's the forehead placement of the hat. I'd love to see her repeat this dress and pull a different accessory color out of the florals.

Speaking of florals, we'll continue to go back in time to last week, when Mathilde was also in a flower power mood:

Queen Mathilde attended the graduation gala at the Royal Ballet School
Belgian Monarchy

Also BIRDS! More animals in the florals, why not? It's got leaves and it's got ruffles, and if you think you smell an Erdem...

Erdem Florence Dress Agar Bird

...you are absolutely correct. She debuted this during the couple's state visit to Canada earlier this year; the designer is Canadian. I like this one on her, I really do.

Tiara Watch of the Day: National Day in Luxembourg

If you can start your week with tiaras, do. Right? Luxembourg's grand ducal fam provided over the weekend during the festivities for National Day. We'll start with some less shiny toppers, though: hats at the annual Te Deum.

L to R: Prince Sébastien, Princess Alexandra, Prince Louis, the Grand Duchess, the Grand Duke, Princess Claire, Prince Félix, the Hereditary Grand Duchess, the Hereditary Grand Duke
Grand Ducal Court/Claude Piscitelli

Two hats and two flowers, to be more precise. I love Grand Duchess Maria Teresa when she's in sleek and simple mode; I love her doubly so when she decides to do it in purple. She's my Te Deum winner by a country mile.

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It's a liiiiiiitle weird to me that Princess Claire repeated this Vilshenko dress from National Day two years ago? Like...there aren't that many events in Luxembourg you attend, you know? Anyway, I will give her credit for the improvement of a magenta flower over the pale flower she wore in 2016. Maybe she realized she needed a redo.

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I'd like to give Princess Stéphanie some credit for her hat interest, too, but that dress is making it real hard. She and Guillaume recently announced that they'll be moving to London for some post-graduate studies. I hope she'll carve out some quality shopping time, too.

Stéphanie did bring out the jumpy claps for the evening gala, I will say that. TIARA TIME!

Grand Ducal Court/Claude Piscitelli

Four tiaras! Not a shabby turnout at all. All National Days should have a gala, internationally. Make it so.

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Behold, the aforementioned jumpy claps: Princess Stéphanie didn't just wear the Luxembourg Turquoise Tiara, she added the entire massive necklace from the family collection. A good way to make the small tiara stand out, and also, YUM.

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Princess Claire is once again wearing Grand Duchess Marie-Adélaïde’s Tiara, which she debuted at the 2016 National Day gala. Her chic white dress is Alexander McQueen (the same style was worn with a tiara by a Danish noblewoman at Crown Prince Frederik's 50th birthday dinner). Stéphanie and Claire, by the way, are both wearing the Order of Civil and Military Merit of Adolph of Nassau. It's Luxembourg's second highest order.

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Princess Alexandra's got a lot going on here, with her Elie Saab of many colors and the sash (the Order of the Gold Lion of the House of Nassau, like her mother and brothers) and the shawl. She chose to bring out the blue with the Aquamarine Bandeau Tiara.

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The recent break in the Grand Duchess' streak of Belgian Scroll Tiara appearances - at the Danish birthday party - proved to be very short-lived indeed. She's right back to her Scroll antics, complete with what I believe is another Elie Saab gown. My affection for my formerly favorite Lux tiara is waning due to lack of variety and it's concerning. I'm sure Maria Teresa is terribly worried about it, too.